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When developing the formulation for The Complexion Clarifying Accelerator, the aim was to work with multi action ingredients that would work synergistically to target several skin states.
One key element of the resurfacing compound was to select exfoliants and enzymes that would resurface the skin and simultaneously deliver anti-pigmentation agents. This would then enable the enzyme acid compound to work further in lifting discolourations, targeting hyperpigmentation and reducing the appearance of those residual dark marks (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation) that occur after acne. For these reasons, selecting one of the most underrated ingredients Dioic Acid was a no brainer.
This is where Dioic Acid comes in….
What is Dioic Acid?
Dioic Acid otherwise known as Octadecenedioic Acid (Dicarboxylic Acid), is used in our formulations and obtained by an eco-designed process from Sunflower Seeds (Sunflower seeds + Oleic Acid = Octadecenedioic Acid). This vegetable-derived ingredient was discovered after research into alternatives to Azelaic Acid (an ingredient known to reduce the symptoms of acne and rosacea as well as targeting hyperpigmentation). In the search for an alternative that could deliver effective results at lower concentrations than 20% Azelaic Acid, Dioic Acid was developed. Structurally similar to Azelaic Acid (both acids are Dicarboxylic Acid), one aspect that makes Dioic Acid interesting, is its ability to not only target hyperpigmentation, fade dark spots and even skin tone but also regulate sebum and combat blemishes whilst minimising risk of irritation.
What are the benefits?
Dioic Acid helps brighten, balance and support even skin tone as it acts along the melanin pathway to regulate melanin and its transfer across skin cells - helping fade hyperpigmentation, dark spots and balance uneven skin tones.
A study comparing twice daily application of 1% Dioic acid to 2% Hydroquinone cream in 96 Mexican female subjects with melasma, showed no significant difference between treatments. Both agents demonstrated equal efficacy in reducing melasma by over 40% after 12 weeks of treatment. However, a notable side effect with hydroquinone is itching. In addition to its brightening effects, Dioic Acid has also been shown to reduce excess sebum whilst targeting acne-causing bacteria. Although more research studies are required to support Octadecenedioic Acid efficacy, we see this ingredient as a staple ingredient in Sachi Skin in our fight against hyperpigmentation and breakouts.
The Complexion Clarifying Accelerator
contains Dioic Acid in combination with Mandelic Acid, Salicylic Acid, other brighteners, antioxidants and barrier supporting ingredients to target hyperpigmentation, stubborn discolourations, enlarged pores, congestion, breakouts, irregular texture, fine lines and blackheads to reveal skin that illuminates with clarity.
See our multitasking Complexion Clarifying Accelerator here.
References: Efficacy of Dioic Acid compared with Hydroquinone in the treatment of melasma; Andres Tirado-Sanchez et al 2009.