5 min read
No one likes to experiment with their skin, but this is what unfortunately happens when we go through product after product trying to find the right one. In this second part of our exfoliation series, we will help you find the best acid for your skin state.
TOP 3 POINTS to Consider When Choosing an Acid Exfoliator
1. More is Not Always Better
It has become a common misconception that the greater the concentration, the better the product or results, but this is not necessarily true. Higher percentage strength can mean greater potency but it also comes with greater risk of irritation.
Studies have reported that AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) starts working effectively for superficial exfoliation (at the outermost layer of skin) at very low levels (5%) and for medium to high strength exfoliation at 10%. The final percentage chosen for a product, however, depends on the nuances of the formulation.
Meanwhile for BHAs (beta hydroxy acids), particularly salicylic acid, most clinical studies recommend a 2% concentration to reduce acne lesions in mild to moderate acne patients. Yet one study suggested that it is effective at 0.5% to treat comedonal and mild acne, so always trust the formulators behind a product - more is not always better.
2. Size Matters
The varying types and sizes of exfoliating acids influence their performance and irritability on the skin. In principle, the lower the molecular size (measured in Daltons), the more effectively they penetrate the skin. However, the risk of irritability also increases with a decreasing size. Use this post to teach yourself the nitty-gritty on how each molecular size of acid behaves on the skin.
3. It’s in the pH
Our skin barrier resides between 4.5- 5.5 in pH during its normal skin functioning. Hence, products with a pH lower or higher than this range run the risk of irritating and disturbing the skin surface.
The pH of most AHAs and BHAs found at retailers are placed at 3.5 and above - values that are considered a close enough compromise to preserve the effectiveness of the formula and avoid skin sensitivities. Since the EU regulatory requirements dictates that products below pH 3.5 in value are not permissible for retail sale, formulas at an unusually low pH, at about 2.5, need to be administered under professional supervision. If you are worried about low pH sensitivities then look for formulations with 4.5-4.8 pH and above that contain high molecular weight acids as discussed above.
Quick Reference: Skin States Guide to Acid Exfoliants
In addition to the classic AHAs, BHAs and the less common PHAs (poly hydroxy acids), Sachi Skin also uses Dioic Acid, a fantastic carboxylic acid (think same family as Azelaic Acid) and well-rounded active that targets multiple skin states. Have a read of our article “What is Dioic Acid” if you’re curious about why we chose this Azelaic Acid alternative for our Complexion Clarifying Accelerator. Find out which acid is the best for your skin state with the table below.
✓ - Helpful when in combination with other relevant ingredients
✓✓ - Good
✓✓✓ - Highly recommended
|
Skin States |
AHAs |
PHAs |
BHAs |
Dioic Acid |
|||
|
Glycolic Acid |
Lactic Acid |
Mandelic Acid |
Gluconolactone |
Lactobionic Acid |
Salicylic Acid |
||
|
Breakouts |
✓✓ |
✓ |
✓✓ |
✓✓✓ |
✓✓✓ |
||
|
Blemish Scarring |
✓✓ |
✓✓ |
✓ |
✓ |
✓✓ |
✓✓✓ |
|
|
Hyperpigmentation |
✓✓✓ |
✓✓✓ |
✓✓✓ |
✓ |
✓ |
✓ |
✓✓✓ |
|
Sensitivity |
✓✓✓ |
✓✓✓ |
✓✓✓ |
✓ |
✓ |
||
|
Dryness |
✓ |
✓✓✓ |
✓✓ |
✓✓✓ |
✓✓✓ |
||
|
Oiliness |
✓✓ |
✓✓✓ |
✓✓✓ |
||||
|
Premature Ageing |
✓✓✓ |
✓✓✓ |
✓✓ |
✓✓ |
✓✓ |
✓ |
✓✓ |
|
Uneven Skin Texture |
✓✓✓ |
✓✓✓ |
✓✓ |
✓ |
✓ |
✓ |
✓ |
|
Dullness |
✓✓ |
✓✓ |
✓✓ |
✓✓ |
✓✓ |
✓ |
✓✓✓ |
|
Dehydrated |
✓✓ |
✓✓ |
✓✓ |
||||
Final Reminders
Ultimately, the response of your skin state is what trumps any of these factors. Feed your skin with what it best responds to.
We at Sachi Skin took an Enzyme Acid approach to exfoliation for high efficacy results with little to no down time (low risk of irritation). Our Complexion Clarifying Accelerator combines the gentlest of AHAs, Dioic Acid and botanical enzymes to create a multitasking blend suited for all skin states, an option to consider if your skin needs exfoliation.
References:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3366450/
